Label for Silk Cloth Made by Jean Cabrier, Merchant-Maker of Silk Cloth

Artist or maker:
Duval, Philippe (d.1709)
Engraved by Johann Jakob Thourneyser, the elder (Swiss, b.1636, d.1711)
1668 {printed date}
Place of Production:
Lyon, France
engraving on paper
Type of Object:
labels (identifying artifacts)
Accession number:
One of a set, see others


Brief Description

Label for attaching to bolts of cloth, for silk merchant and maker Jean Cabrier, dated 1668, designed by Ph. Duval (Philippe) and engraved by J. J. Thourneyser (Johann Jakob). The image and text are both engraved. The card consists of a large rectangular figural scene with a depiction of goods. Above this scene, a thin ribbon bears the maker's name. Below this scene is a paper scroll bearing text referring to the order details, and space to fill these in. Beneath this scroll is the rest of the text.

The figural scene is located on an architectural ledge, behind which are billowing clouds. A large ball rests on a step below the ledge. Cornucopias of fruit branch out from the base of the ball. Superimposed on this part of the representation are two roundels bearing the monogram of Jean Cabrier on the right, and on the left a heraldic motif composed of a shield surmounted by a helmet and mantling both formed from scrolling acanthus leaves. The shield bears the device of: argent, a tree proper with a dog rampant proper.

Seated on the globe is a partially clothed winged woman, a representation of Fame. She blows a trumpet held in her left hand, and holds another trumpet in her right. To the left of Fame is Mercury shown with his caduceus and winged helmet. To her right is a partially clothed woman with a dog, a symbol of Fidelity. These two figures hold a bolt of cloth above the head of Fame. This is decorated with leaves and leaf scrolls.

Curatorial Commentary

The combined figures of Mercury and the representation of fidelity, provides the message that Cabrier's goods will be delivered with speed and reliability.

Jean Cabrier may well be the Huguenot silk manufacturer and merchant from Lyon who emigrated to Amsterdam at the Revocation of Nantes - see web addresses.

Phillippa Plock, 2008

Physical description

Dimensions (mm):
164 x 134
Physical Details:
single sheet, plate mark size: 145 x 115, image and text size: 144 x 112
Signature & Date
signed and dated in the plate, lower edge: Ph. Duval fa. I.I. Thourneyser sc. Lug. 1668
FABRICQUE DE JEAN CABRIER A LYON. / No. [monogram] / Ph. Duval fa. I.I. Thourneyser sc. Lug. 1668
Manufactory of Jean Cabrier in Lyon. Ph. Duval made [this]. I.I. Thourneyser carved [engraved this]. July. 1668


Acquired by Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild (b.1839, d.1898) before 1897; inherited by his sister Alice de Rothschild (b.1847, d.1922); inherited by her great-nephew James de Rothschild (b.1878, d.1957); bequeathed to Waddesdon The Rothschild Collection (The National Trust) in 1957.
Part of:
Recueil d'adresses: A collection of sixteenth, seventeenth, eighteenth and nineteenth century French, German, Belgian, Swiss, Dutch, Italian and Spanish trade cards, labels, wrappers, advertisements and related commercial ephemera bound in four volumes. 3686.1-4
Waddesdon, The Rothschild Collection (The National Trust)
Bequest of James de Rothschild, 1957



John Grand-Carteret; L'enseigne: son histoire, sa philosophie, ses particularités, les boutiques, les maisons, la rue, la réclame commerciale à Lyon; Grenoble; Librairie Dauphinoise; 1902; p. 331; mentions the label.

Related literature

Léon Maillard; Les Menus et Programmes illustrés, invitations, billets de faire part, cartes d'adresse, petites estampes, du XVIIe siècle jusqu'à nos jours; Paris; G Boudet; 1898. pp. 7-9, discusses and illustrates an example of a card with similar imagery, of a Lyonnais clothmaker, Antoine Guerrier

http://huguenots.free.fr/france/lyon/lyon17/pag9.htm On the Huguenot Cabrier [accessed 05 Nov 2008]

Indexed terms

Other details

Location of Premises:
Trades (Original Language):
ouvrier en draps de soie/Textile activities
marchand de soie/Textile activities